Driving Camper Van in Iceland

The Camper Guide We Wish We Had Before Our First Iceland Trip

We’ve been traveling around Iceland for years now in our own camper cars. And in different rental campers. Honestly - its be the best way to discover the country!

After trying almost every setup imaginable — a big motorhome, smaller 2WD and 4WD campers, and even a jeep with a roof tent — the conclusion is very clear for us: a smaller 4x4 camper is the absolute winner.

Lets frist speak about the other campers we traveled in.

Our 8 m long MC Louis motorhome June 2024

Traveling in Iceland with Bigger Motorhome

We took our bigger motorhome whole way from Sweden to Iceland in June 2024. Its as amazing time with the family. But it had some limitations.

Minuses:
A big motorhome looks tempting, but it comes with serious limitations in Iceland. It’s not easy to manoeuvre, and you can forget about driving into the highlands. Smaller gravel roads become a challenge when your vehicle is eight meters long (like ours). And if the wind picks up — which it absolutely will — driving a large motorhome is simply not fun.
I also wouldn’t choose a big 2WD motorhome for winter driving in Iceland. It’s just not safe or flexible enough for the unpredictable weather.

Pluses:
If the weather turns bad for longer periods, a big motorhome becomes a very comfortable shelter. You have your shower, your WC, real space to move around, and for families this can be a huge advantage.
For less adventurous plans, or for summer trips where you stick to the Ring Road and monitor the weather so you avoid driving in storms, a large motorhome can be a good choice. Just don't expect to go anywhere remote.

Traveling with the Jeep with Roof Tent

A jeep with a roof tent is a fun idea — and great for adventurous souls — but in Iceland it quickly becomes a test of survival.

With the jeep and the roof tent in Highlands 2023

The first time we wanted to explore the highlands, we rented a jeep with a roof tent. The first day felt exciting. By day four we could not wait to get back to a normal camper van.

The Icelandic weather simply does not support living in a roof tent. A close friend of mine spent 100 days in Iceland one summer. She could only use the roof tent a few times because of rain, wind, and cold. The rest of the time she slept inside the jeep — which was uncomfortable, but at least warmer. That says everything.

Cooking outside? Forget it. In strong winds your food literally flies away. Many days of the year you simply cannot cook or eat outside at all, especially in the highlands where there is zero infrastructure. If your car doesn’t have proper inside facilities, you’re stuck.

Imagine this:
You’re trying to cook while blocking side-rain and freezing wind. You end up soaked down to the underwear. Then you climb up the little ladder to the roof tent in 15 m/s wind, everything is wet and muddy, and you start trying to figure out where to put your dirty shoes — or should you climb without them? In the rain?
This is exactly how it is. I honestly cannot recommend a roof-tent setup in Iceland for more than 4–5 days.

Pluses:
A jeep with a roof tent gives you complete freedom to move anywhere, especially on F-roads. And for short adventures, with good weather luck, it can be fun.


Simple small 2WD camper without wool isolation.

The very first time we traveled in Iceland, we hired this kind of camper. On that first trip, we tried one of those very small 2WD campers without wool insulation. They are cheap, simple, and look perfect on paper — but in Iceland, “cheap and simple” very quickly becomes “cold and uncomfortable.” We actually did several Ring Road trips in a Renault Kangoo.

Kangoo on our first trip to Iceland

The main problem with the Kangoo was the cold walls. Without wool insulation, the metal gets freezing during the night, even in summer. When you touch the wall, you feel the cold immediately, and the whole van loses heat fast.

The second problem was the heater. These smaller campers usually have a weak, loud heater that turns on and off all night with an annoying buzzing sound, and still doesn’t manage to keep the temperature stable. So you end up in a strange mix of noise and cold.
And if the heater gives up — it becomes freezing inside within minutes. (This actually happened to us.)

Finally, most of these small campers have poor charging options. No second battery, no proper USB outlets, no real power setup. After a couple of hours, you can’t charge phones, cameras, or even the heater properly. On my first trip I had a serious battery crisis and spent hours sitting in camping kitchens charging drone batteries.

So yes — it’s cheap. That is the big plus.

By the way, if you really want the cheapest 2WD option, choose a company that still includes wool insulation. For example, Happy Campers and some other rentals offers insulated 2WD vans — choose that instead!

After several trips in cheaper 2WD campers without insulation, we finally decided to always travel in our own camper car.
Until this October, when we couldn’t bring it.

And that’s when we turned to Happy Campers.

The best choice for us has always been a smaller 4x4 camper van. For years we traveled around Iceland every summer with our own modified Mercedes Vito — our little home on wheels. It took us everywhere: into the highlands, across rough gravel roads, through unpredictable weather. It was the perfect size, the perfect flexibility, and honestly, the perfect companion.

But this time, in November, we couldn’t bring the Vito. It was standing at home, and for a shorter winter trip we needed something reliable, compact, and strong enough for Iceland’s changing conditions. So we started looking for the best partner for this kind of adventure.

We’ve been traveling in Iceland for so long that we’ve seen Happy Campers vans everywhere — those colourful, friendly vans that you immediately recognize on the road. They honestly have this adorable look: you see one and you immediately think, “Ah, those guys are having fun.”

Choice for this trip - Happy Campers. Happy 4X4 with the snorkel. Modified VW Transporter

One summer we actually stopped a tourist from Spain to ask if we could take a look inside the van. And we were genuinely impressed. It was much cozier than we expected — smart layout, warm, thoughtfully designed. Not just a rental car with a bed thrown in, but a tiny, functional home.

So ever since that day, we said:
“One day we should try traveling in Iceland in a Happy Camper.”

And this November trip was finally the moment to do it. We got to try the Happy 4x4, and it felt like the perfect continuation of our Vito years — the same freedom, the same flexibility. But a rental option, not our own.

Took a picture at some point of other tourist traveling by Happy Camper and it was looking very cute, we were thinking

What’s Important for Us When Choosing a Camper in Iceland

On the F 225 in Mid October

What’s Important for Us When Choosing a Camper in Iceland

After many years of traveling around Iceland in all kinds of vehicles, we’ve become very picky about what actually matters. Iceland is not a place where you choose a camper based on “cute interiors” or Instagram photos. You choose based on survival, comfort, and safety — and yes, this applies even in summer.

Here are the things we personally always check before renting a camper in Iceland:

1. Winter insulation — even in summer

Good insulation is essential all year round. Icelandic nights can drop close to freezing even in July, and waking up with ice-cold walls next to your face is not fun.
We always check that the camper has proper wool insulation on the inside. If the walls get cold, you will get cold. Simple as that.

2. A reliable heater (not optional!)

Winter Ring Road 1

A heater is non-negotiable.
Also in summer.
Also for “tough” people.
Also for short trips.

Ask very clearly:

  • How long does the heater last overnight?

  • Does it charge enough while driving?

  • What should you do if it stops?

A good heater should comfortably last all night after 2–3 hours of driving. If not, you’ll wake up at 4 AM freezing — and trust me, nobody is happy then.

3. 4WD — for the highlands and for winter

If you want to access the highlands in summer, 4WD is a must. Most F-roads are simply not allowed for 2WD cars.
For winter adventures we personally recommend 4WD as well. Roads can be icy, snowy, or muddy, and weather can change in minutes. Having 4WD gives you far more control and safety.

4. Modified air intake (snorkel) — for highlands river crossings

This is one of the biggest mistakes we see tourists making.

If your car is not modified with a higher air intake (snorkel or internal modification), do not attempt bigger river crossings in the highlands.
We have seen so many cars stuck in rivers, filled with water, or simply destroyed because people thought “it looks shallow.”

River depth in Iceland changes hourly.
Just because you saw a YouTube video does not mean you can do it.

Air intake modification on Happy 4×4

Always ask your rental company:

  • Is the car modified for river crossings?

  • What is the maximum safe depth for this model?

  • Are river crossings even allowed in the rental contract?

If the answer is unclear — skip it.

5. Wind resistance

This is often forgotten. Iceland’s wind can reach 20–30 m/s, and some high-top campers become unstable.
We prefer lower, compact campers because they handle the wind much better. If you sleep in the camper and it’s windy, it’s not a joke. You feel like the camper will just fall on the side.

6. Cooking and eating inside

It rains sideways in Iceland.
Often.

If you cannot cook or eat inside your camper, you simply won’t eat on many days — especially in the highlands, where there's no shelter anywhere.

We always make sure:

  • there’s a functioning indoor kitchen setup

  • enough space to eat inside

  • good ventilation for cooking

7. Storage and layout

Space matters when the weather traps you indoors.
We look for:

  • smart storage so everything has its place

  • a bed that’s easy to set up every night

  • a comfortable place to sit when it’s raining for hours

8. Ground clearance

Extremely important for F-roads.
A 4x4 with low clearance is still a bad choice for highlands.
We check:

  • tire size

  • suspension

  • how easily the bottom of the car could hit rocks

9. Fuel efficiency

Driving long distances on gravel and 4WD roads eats fuel quickly. Smaller 4x4 campers strike a perfect balance between power and economy.

10. Device charging

Everybody who will travel to Iceland will want to photograph it.

You need reliable charging possibilities in the car. And good battery.

For photographers - it’s the most important, because all our cameras, drones, computers need to be charges all the time.

Picking Up the Camper – And Why We Always Choose Zero Risk Insurance

One great thing with Happy Campers is that you get a free shuttle from the airport. This is extremely important, because taxi prices in Iceland are… well, let’s just say shockingly high. The shuttle alone saves you a lot of money and stress after landing.

When we arrived at their office, the staff was genuinely friendly and helpful. They explained the rental agreement clearly, walked us through every detail of the camper, and showed us exactly how everything works. No rushing, no assumptions, no “figure it out yourself later.” Just calm, patient, informative service — which you truly appreciate when you know you’re about to drive into Icelandic winter.

Why We Always Choose Zero Risk Insurance

We always choose the Zero Risk insurance, without hesitation.

I am a careful and secure driver. We’re from Sweden, and we’re used to difficult winter conditions. Snow, ice, slippery roads — this is not new for us.

But Iceland is a completely different story.

After many years of traveling here, I’ve learned one important thing:
The danger is often not you — it’s everything else.

The road conditions can change in minutes. Gravel roads can suddenly throw stones the size of golf balls at your windshield. Wind can hit the car sideways so strongly that you feel it move. The weather shifts from sunshine to snowstorm in ten minutes. And then there are other drivers — often from for example warmer countries — who are driving in snow, storms, and on ice for the first time in their lives.

You can be the safest driver in the world, but Iceland can still surprise you.
And sometimes… not in a good way.

So for us, Zero Risk insurance is not luxury.
It’s peace of mind.
It’s knowing that if something happens — a stone, a storm, or a sliding car from the opposite lane — we don’t add financial stress to the situation.

And in Iceland, that matters.

How to Check the Weather in Iceland and Plan Your Trip

In Iceland, the weather is the real boss. It decides everything — where you can drive, what you can see, and sometimes even whether you can leave your parking spot. So the most important thing you can do is check the weather and road conditions every single day and be ready to change your plans immediately.

We always use 3 main tools:

  • vedur.is – the official Icelandic weather service

  • safetravel.is – road warnings, wind alerts, closed areas, travel conditions

  • road.is - road conditions! Never go anywhere without checking this site first!

Every morning we start by checking:

  • wind speed

  • road conditions

  • weather alerts

  • which areas are safe or unsafe

  • where storms or heavy snow are moving

And then we adjust the plan of the day.
Sometimes we change direction completely.
Sometimes we stay put.
Sometimes we skip something and go somewhere else.

This is totally normal in Iceland.

The key is to stay flexible.
Don’t force a fixed itinerary — Iceland doesn’t care about your schedule.
Make a new plan every morning, and have a backup plan in case the weather turns quickly (which it will).

If you respect the weather, Iceland will treat you well. If you ignore it, it can become dangerous. Being informed and flexible is the safest and smartest way to travel here.

Iceland is greeting us with the rainbow on the very first day

Driving in the Highlands – What to Check and When to Stop

The Icelandic highlands are one of the most magical places on earth, but also one of the most unforgiving. Before you even think about going there, you must check if the highlands are open. This is not optional.
Use:

  • road.is – which F-roads are open or closed

On the Road F 225

And remember:
You are only allowed to drive F-roads with a 4x4.
And realistically — you should never enter the highlands with anything else. This is non-negotiable.

If a road is marked closed, it means closed for everyone. Not “closed unless you have a big jeep,” not “closed for rental cars only.”
Closed means: turn around.

River Crossings – When, How, and When to Turn Around

If you go in summer and the roads are open, the next thing to understand is river crossings. They can look innocent, but conditions change every hour. Meltwater rises in the afternoon, rainstorms change the depth, and the riverbed shifts constantly.

Our rules after many years:

  • Only with a 4x4. Never in a 2WD.

  • Never cross if you are unsure.

  • Never cross fast or unclear water.

  • Never cross if ice is forming.

  • Always walk the river first or watch another car cross.

  • Go slow, steady, and never stop in the middle.

If your car has no snorkel or modified air intake, don’t attempt larger rivers at all.
We have seen so many cars stuck or filled with water. It ruins the trip immediately.

Frozen River Crossing at F225 mid October

And if you see ice on the river — that’s the end of the road.
Ice means unstable water levels and dangerous conditions.
No crossing, no exceptions.

Never Sleep in the Highlands in Late Autumn

Another rule we follow strictly:
In late autumn, never sleep in the highlands. Only go for day trips.

Because:

  • snow can start suddenly

  • roads can close behind you

  • temperatures drop to freezing

  • rivers become unpredictable

  • even 4x4 cars can get trapped

You can have sunshine at 10:00 and a full snowstorm at 14:00.
So our routine is:

  • drive into the highlands early

  • enjoy the day

  • drive out in the afternoon

  • sleep somewhere safe

The highlands are breathtaking — but only if you respect the timing, the weather, and the absolute requirement of a 4x4.

Happy 4x4 review


  • 4x4 ✅ Allowed in highlands

  • Air intake modification ✅ Snorkel is important if you plan to cross the rivers

  • Kitchen inside ✅

  • Wool insulation ✅ very important for us

  • Charging possibilities ✅ 2 charging ports in the cabin and 2 in the living space. I charged 2 hubs of drone

    batteries in the cabin and it was totally ok.

  • Heater ✅ lasts long! We tried 16 hours - was still going well

  • Easy transformable table-sofa into bed ✅ You can actually sit very well there

  • Storage space inside ✅

    If there is something we would wish they would add, it is some sort of hooks for hanging the winter jackets near the door (this we have plenty in our own camper and it's very practical).

Generally, this camper is really a catch! I would not hesitate to get it in any time of the year. We loved it so much that we probably will get a transporter as a personal camper. It's a perfect size, easy to manoeuvre, but still not too small, so you can sit inside and have some space. The layout is very well thought out and comfortable.

Final Thoughts

After all these years of exploring Iceland in every possible way — big motorhomes, roof tents, small 2WD campers, jeeps, our own beloved 4x4 Vito, and now the Happy 4x4 — one thing has become very clear:

Iceland rewards the traveler who respects the conditions.

This country is wild, unpredictable, and unbelievably beautiful. It doesn’t care about your plans, your schedule, or your “must-see” list. But if you stay flexible, choose the right vehicle, and follow the weather, Iceland will show you places you will never forget.

A smaller 4x4 camper continues to be our favourite choice:
it’s safe, warm, efficient, and gives you the freedom to go almost anywhere. Happy Campers Happy 4x4 was the perfect partner for this trip.

Plan each day fresh.
Check the weather and roads condition every morning.
Be ready to change direction.
And never underestimate the wind, the rivers, or the highlands.

If you do that, Iceland will give you more than you expect — more beauty, more silence, more adventure, and more moments where you feel like you are alone on another planet.

Travel safe, travel smart, and enjoy every minute of this incredible country.


Text and Photography: Julia M. Dahlkvist

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